Cornwall 2020

Getting a break in 2020 was very up and down and many plans and trips have been postponed until 2021 or cancelled until we have a better idea of what travel can be completed. A break after 7 months of being at home was so needed so we booked a short break down to Cornwall.  

The drive to Cornwall is around 5 hours from home, we stayed in a small village near Truro call Probus in a beautiful little bed and breakfast called Spring Cottage. The host was fantastic, and it is our 2nd visit here so knew what to expect and that they would be warm, welcoming and the standards are high in terms of facilities and cleanliness. I would recommend this place to anyone wishing to visit Cornwall. The location is great for all the main sites and has a good array of local restaurants and shops a short drive away and open spaces nearby if you need a morning walk or run.  https://www.springcottage.co.uk/

Cornwall has a lot of highlights depending on your tastes and preferences. Walks around the coastline, hiking in the forest, museums, shopping and great food and drinks. 

Here are my top tips for the first-time visitors.

For a mix of history, magic and coastal walks then a trip out to Tintagel Castle and Merlin’s cave is the perfect place to explore and it is set high up on the North Cornwall coast, offering dramatic views from wherever you look. Tintagel Castle is booking only at this time and numbers are limit which worked well so make sure you pre-book prior to heading over. Tintagel is a Cornish castle that has some attachment to the legend of King Arthur. Explore the ruins and cross the new bridge Cross the spectacular bridge so that you can take in unforgettable views of the coastline and explore the history of the castle. Walk around the ruins that still present and see medieval remains and see the life-size bronze statue of an ancient king who keeps watch over the sea below and is a great photo opportunity.

Soak up the natural beauty of the headland and look out for wildlife. It is said that you might be able to see seals playing in the water and the cliffs are filled with birds sheltering from the winds.

Head down to sea level to stroll along the sandy beach and venture into Merlin's Cave, the water is clear but the pathway is uneven and not recommended for those who aren’t confident but getting to the beach is worth the ‘climb’ for sure. 

For those with an interest in history the visitor centre offers an exhibition on King Arthur and if after the walk a refuel is needed then the beach café will be just what you need. Tintagel Castle has fired the imaginations of many writers over the years and is full of history and a beautiful beach. The 

Land’s End offers beautiful coastal views and a walk along the cliffside is not to be missed. Land’s End is the famous start or end to the top to tail cycle up to John O’Groats and is 838 miles and is an iconic route taken up and I would imagine a great way to see the country if feeling brave. We probably covered as many miles around Cornwall but would love to attempt it in the future.

We luckily picked a clear day with blue skies and a light breeze on our visit, but I could imagine on a wet and windy day a coastline walk would not be so appealing. There is the tourist attraction part of Land’s End with the gift shop, photo opportunity under the sign and a restaurant but as the weather was nice and in times of social distancing we avoided that and instead walked along the cliff and around the land to take in the views and get some good photos. We walked along to the 200-year-old Greeb Farm, worth the walk to see the animals and an easy walk from the Land’s End carpark. The views are not to be missed and was nice to have a stop and enjoy the scenery. https://landsend-landmark.co.uk/attractions/greeb-farm/

Possibly on the greatest theatres must be the Minack in Cornwall, the views alone must make seeing any show there magical. I do not have the words to describe how beautiful it was but there are plenty of pictures of the views and the Minack to enjoy.

The Minack is a dramatic open-air theatre set on the Cornish cliffs close to Porthcurno. The unique setting was the dream and creation of Rowena Cade who personally carried out much of the work to create this inspired place that is still enjoyed today by many visitors.

Rowena Cade worked for years aided by her gardener and one or two other helpers to create a terrace and stages of seating in her cliff-top garden. All materials had to be hauled down from the house or up the winding path from the beach below and the story of the creation of the Minack is shown in the museum and exhibition centre attached to the theatre itself. 

Normally the Minack is in use from June to September for a full summer season of plays, each performance being played out against the magnificent backdrop of the ocean. This year with the pandemic many shows have not been able to go ahead but it has been open for visitors to look around. It was a quiet day when we visited so it was good to look around and keep a social distance. The café and exhibition space were closed but it was great to look around the stage and see the views across the cliffs. Many types of shows from opera to comedy are staged at the Minack so go for a look around the theatre and try and book a show, will be hoping to on my return visit. 

Be sure to check out the Minack on Instagram and check the website for shows and the live cam to get a peak at the views from this iconic landmark. https://www.minack.com/

My 2 contrasting recommendations are the Geevor tin mine and the waterfall at St Nectan’s. We checked the weather for our trip and needed a few things to do when the weather was not so good. A wet start to the day meant a trip to the Geevor Tin Mine, a world heritage site which gives the history of a trade that was important to many in the area. An interesting insight into how the mines operated and many of the inside is left as it was when the mine closed. 

Set on a cliff top the mine gave off some impressive views and the blue skies appeared as the tour finished. Well recommended for anyone visiting. More photos and information via 

https://geevor.com/ to give you opening details and more of the history and importance of the mines in Cornwall. 

Set on a cliff top the mine gave off some impressive views and the blue skies appeared as the tour finished. Well recommended for anyone visiting. More photos and information via 

https://geevor.com/ to give you opening details and more of the history and importance of the mines in Cornwall. 

On a warm afternoon we wanted to see St Nectan’s Glen. It’s waterfall is hailed as a natural beauty, a real sense of calm and relaxation as you wander through the green spaces towards the waterfalls which are hidden deep within the trail. It is well worth the hike and the cool waters, decorations and the sunshine through the treetops was magical 

I do not want to over sell the place but would urge you to check it out on a visit to Cornwall, take time to paddle in the water and enjoy the wonderful calm atmosphere. We were lucky that social distancing and going off peak time that it added to the quiet and tranquillity and have heard that in the height of summer some of that magic is lost amongst the crowds. 

Cornwall is famous for fishing and is home to a great selection of fishing villages and harbours to explore. I have listed a few of my favourites to add to your itinerary and to consider as lunch stops or just to have a coffee and potter around. 

Mousehole (pronounced ‘’Mowzel") was possibly the smallest and quietest fishing village that we came across. It was heading towards sunset and we stopped here on the way back from the Minack Theatre just as sunset was approaching. It is a picturesque Cornish fishing village a few miles from Penzance. It is an old-fashioned harbour filled with boats and yachts along with canoe boats that can be hired in the summer.

Traditional cottages and narrow streets make up the village and you can walk along the hillside above the harbour and there is the distinct smell of salt in the air. We stopped at the Hole Foods Deli and Café for some coffee and a homemade pastry to reenergise after a long day of exploring.

We came out of season and parking was easy enough by the harbour but it is recommended in peak season to park out of the village and walk down to the hub as the narrow roads can cause a traffic build up. 

Next up head for Padstow. A beautiful town, busy but has some great restaurants and shops and we parked just outside of town and walked down to the harbour through the cobbled streets, passed the many cottages and holidays homes and independent shops. There are boat trips from the harbour and walking routes to enjoy. Rick Stein has several restaurants and shops in the area but there are fish and chips to fine dining on offer depending on your budget.

If you want to escape the busy town and harbour then the 18-mile Camel Trail links Padstow, Wadebridge and Bodmin. It follows old railway tracks alongside the river Camel. The trail is meant to be great for cycling, walking and nature watching. Bike hire is available if you are a keen cyclist.

You can stop and sit by the water or take the whole trip around depending on what you want to do. We took a walk part way around and in the warm weather and after being in the town it was nice to have a bit of peace and quiet. Sitting on the water side is a good spot to take in the Cornish vista. 

We stopped again at Café Rojano ( https://www.paul-ainsworth.co.uk/cafferojano/about/ ) for lunch and the food, service and ambience was perfect as it was when we visited on each visit to Cornwall. It always lives up to expectations and the food was freshly prepared and the menu offers a good variety for all tastes. The terrace area gives a good spot to watch the world go by and as Padstow is a popular place it is the perfect people watching spot. 

Port Isaac is another fishing village, traditional with a vibrant local community in northern part of Cornwall and home to the TV series Doc Martin starring Martin Clunes.  It's one of the many picturesque villages with narrow winding streets lined with whitewashed cottages that head down to the harbour where you can watch local fishermen landing their daily catch of fish, crab and lobsters. 

Walking in Port Isaac along the coastal pathways can allow you to explore local hamlets, Port Quin and Port Gaverne, a nice few mile walk to work up an appetite so you can reward yourself with some of the local seafood or a traditional Cornish pasty.

Local galleries and arts and craft shops line the streets alongside the beautiful cottages that date back to the 18th century. Boat trips in the summer are also offered from the harbour in the peak season. The views into the harbour are as stunning as the views from the cliff top pathways and worth taking your camera to capture the evening sunset. 

Quaint, charming and like a step back in time is the best way to describe it. It was the first place I visited in Cornwall many years ago and it was great to go back this past summer, walk around the cobbled streets and relax in the harbour. It has the charm of all the Cornish villages but is quieter than the others so in a time of social distancing it did feel that you could take in the surroundings and not have to avoid the crowds like we did in St Ives and Padstow. 

After a day of exploring the towns of Cornwall, drive up to the beach at Perranporth, get some fish and chips and watch the sun set over the Sandy beach.... perfect. 

Just 8 miles from Newquay and its miles of Sandy beaches and the shores facing the Atlantic Ocean make it ideal for surfing, snorkelling, swimming or relaxing on the beach. 

Dogs are welcome and several restaurants close by to enjoy. 

If a day relaxing on the beach is needed then this is a good location as due to the vast beaches it can feel that you have the place to yourself and enjoy the surroundings without feeling that your space is being invaded.

Cornwall has so much to offer so whatever you decide to do on your trip to Cornwall, take time to enjoy the surroundings and the views from the ports, harbours and beaches.... it’s a truly beautiful part of the world and is always great to explore your home country , shop and support local businesses and communities and keep seaside towns alive and for those visiting the UK add Cornwall to your planning alongside the cities such as London or Brighton. 

Happy Travels 

Nick – The Thoughtful Traveller